Burglary protection for flats and houses: what really works
Where do burglars most often get in?
Burglars generally take the path of least resistance: the front door, windows, balcony or patio doors and side entrances such as the cellar door. Which point is most vulnerable in your home depends on its location and construction.
In apartment buildings, the flat door is often the main target because it can be reached unseen from the stairwell. In detached houses and ground-floor flats, windows and French doors on the side facing away from the street are particularly at risk.
- Front doors with a basic cylinder and no door guard plate
- Ground-floor windows and French doors, especially when left on tilt
- Balcony and patio doors that lock at only one point
- Cellar doors, side entrances and garage access
- Light wells and cellar windows without protection
- Windows that can be reached from canopies, walls or waste containers
Take a deliberate walk around your house or through your flat and ask yourself where you could get in without a key. These spots are your priority if you want to know what really works for your home.
Why does mechanical protection come first?
Mechanical protection prevents or delays entry, whereas an alarm system only reports a break-in. That is why police and security professionals usually recommend reinforcing doors and windows first.
Burglars want to work quickly and without being noticed. If they meet stubborn resistance, the risk of being caught rises and many attempts are abandoned. Good mechanical security therefore works exactly where it matters: at the door or window, at the decisive moment.
Electronic aids such as alarms, motion detectors or cameras can be a useful addition. However, they do not replace a sturdy door or a lockable window. The most effective approach is an overall concept in which all entry points are similarly well protected, because burglars look for the weakest link.
How do you secure your front door properly?
A front door is well secured when the cylinder, guard plate, lock and frame work together. Even a high-quality cylinder is of little use if it sticks out far from the door or the frame gives way.
- Security cylinder with anti-pull and anti-drill protection: hardened inserts make drilling harder, and anti-pull protection stops the cylinder being ripped out with a tool.
- Door guard plate: a solid outer plate, bolted on from the inside, that surrounds the cylinder flush, ideally with a cylinder cover.
- Multi-point locking: the lock secures the door at several points at once, not just in the middle.
- Cross-bar lock: an additional bar across the door, anchored on both sides in the masonry or frame.
- Reinforced strike plate and hinge-side protection, so the door cannot be levered open on either the lock or the hinge side.
- Peephole or door restrictor, so you do not have to open the door fully to strangers.
Professional installation is crucial: on the outside, a cylinder should protrude no more than a few millimetres beyond the guard plate. Our guide to lock cylinders explains the different types and their security features. If the lock itself is old or faulty, a lock replacement may make sense.
If you rent, check with your property manager before making structural changes such as fitting a cross-bar. In a master key system, any new cylinder must also fit the building's locking plan.
Windows, balcony and patio doors: underestimated weak spots
Windows and French doors can often be levered open with simple tools faster than a front door. Lockable handles and additional security devices close this gap.
A window left on tilt is, from a security standpoint, an open window. Some insurers also check after a burglary whether a window was tilted. So close all windows whenever you leave home, even briefly, and read the terms of your policy.
- Lockable window handles stop the handle being turned from outside through a small hole drilled in the frame or glass.
- Mushroom-head locking: mushroom-shaped pins on the sash engage in security keeps on the frame, making it harder to lever the window open.
- Screw-on additional locks for existing windows and balcony doors.
- Grilles or gratings with lift-off protection for cellar windows and light wells.
- Laminated safety glass, which holds together when struck instead of shattering.
With balcony and patio doors, check the handle side and the hinges, as many older doors lock at only one point. Retrofitting is usually possible on existing windows without replacing them.
Cellar doors and side entrances: often forgotten
Cellar doors, garage access and side entrances are often less well secured than the main door, even though they are usually out of sight. They deserve the same protection as the main entrance.
In apartment buildings, the cellar door is usually part of the master key system and the responsibility of the property manager. Let them know if it does not close properly or is regularly left open. In a detached house, if stairs lead from the cellar to the living area, the connecting door should also be sturdy and lockable.
Your own cellar compartment also deserves attention. A robust padlock and no valuables visible from outside make it far less attractive to thieves.
Lock it, don't just pull it shut: which habits protect you?
A door that has only been pulled shut is much easier to open than one that has been locked. So always lock the door, even if you are only going out briefly.
The difference is simple: when you pull the door shut, only the latch, the bevelled tongue of the lock, holds it. When you lock it, the solid deadbolt also extends into the frame. Beyond the hardware, your daily habits matter a great deal:
- Always lock the door, even during the day and for short absences.
- Close windows, balcony and patio doors rather than leaving them on tilt.
- Never hide keys under the doormat, in a flower pot or in the letterbox.
- Close the building's main door behind you and do not let strangers in.
- Put away ladders, garden furniture and tools that could be used for climbing.
- If you lose a key, act quickly rather than waiting.
Attentive neighbours are an extra layer of protection. If you notice anything suspicious, such as people checking doorbell name plates or trying door handles, call the police on 117 straight away.
How can you protect your home while on holiday?
While you are away, what matters most is that your home looks occupied. Simulate presence and avoid visible signs of your absence. This checklist has proven useful:
- Have a trusted person empty your letterbox regularly, or ask the post office to hold your mail.
- Use timers for lights, radio or TV, set to switch at varying times.
- Do not leave roller shutters closed the whole time; have them opened during the day if possible.
- Only share holiday plans and photos on social media once you are back.
- Do not leave an away message with your travel dates on your answering machine.
- Keep valuables and important documents in a safe or a bank safe-deposit box.
- Tell your neighbours and leave them a contact number.
Before you leave, check all windows as well as the balcony and cellar doors once more. This prevents a single forgotten opening from undoing all your other measures.
Where can you get independent advice?
You can get neutral advice on burglary protection from the cantonal police, many of whom offer crime prevention consultations. Swiss Crime Prevention (SCP) also provides leaflets and practical tips.
This kind of advice is independent of manufacturers and shows which measures will do the most for your home. Also check with your household contents insurer whether specific security measures are required, and with your property manager what you are allowed to change in a rented flat.
For the installation of security cylinders, door guard plates or additional locks, BLITZAUF24 is available around the clock. We give factual advice on burglary protection, state the price before work begins and always check identity and right of access when opening doors. You can pay in cash, by card, with TWINT or by invoice. If a break-in has already happened, our guide After a burglary sets out the right steps.
Frequently asked questions on this topic
An alarm can be a useful addition, but it does not replace mechanical protection, because it reports a break-in without preventing it. In a rented flat, wireless systems can be installed without major building work. Clarify beforehand who will respond if the alarm goes off, and discuss the installation with your property manager. Doors and windows should be properly secured first.
Generally yes, provided you inform your property manager beforehand or obtain their consent. In a master key system, the new cylinder must fit the locking plan, otherwise the master key and building key will no longer work. Keep the old cylinder, as you will often be asked to restore the original condition when you move out. Check your tenancy agreement.
Anti-pull protection prevents a burglar from pulling the lock cylinder out of the door or snapping it with a tool. It usually consists of hardened inserts in the cylinder or a cylinder cover built into the door guard plate. Together with anti-drill protection, which makes drilling harder, it is one of the key features of a security cylinder.
Stolen or damaged belongings are generally covered by household contents insurance, provided theft from your home is included. Damage to doors or windows may, depending on the policy, be covered by your contents insurance or by the owner's insurance. Check your terms, especially regarding open or tilted windows, and report any loss promptly.
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